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Wednesday, June 02 2010

Know Your Shirt: What does a shirt's weight have to do with it's quality?

By Jerry Kozak on

Tags: Know Your Shirt Screen Printing Fabric Weight Quality American Apparel

We get asked a lot of questions about our shirts, and have decided to set out to answer them in a series of blog posts titled "Know Your Shirt."

T-shirts aren't rocket science, but there is a wide array of options available on the market and a knowing a few key attributes can determine whether your next one finds its way into the Goodwill bin or the bottom of the laundry basket.

Fabric Weight

When dealing with 100% cotton shirts, the quality of the garment is largely determined by the fabric weight. Shirt fabric is measured in ounces per square yard. For the large generic brands (Gildan, Hanes, Anvil, Port and Co, Jerzees, Fruit of the Loom) you can choose between 5.3 oz and 6.1 oz fabric. 5.6 oz shirts tend to be light and wispy, yet somehow also scratchy. They shrink to a greater degree and generally end up feeling like a rag after several washings. They are also cheaper, and many printers use them as a default. Be sure to ask! ....we obviously default to a 6.1 oz because we love our clients and would like to see them again.

The exception to this rule is fashion shirts, like those found in American Apparel, Urban Outfitters, etc. these tend to be in the 3.8 - 4.5 oz range, but are sewn in a fine jersey knit (flat, tightly bound fibers) and use ringspun (ultra-soft) cotton. They are not as durable in the sense that they would make a poor choice for a carpenter working around protruding nails, but they will not fall apart or fit poorly, either. On the contrary, they are some of the most comfortable shirts on the market. 


We recommend choosing your shirt weight based on it's intended use:

 

Vintage-Feel / Sheer Fabric: 3.7 oz

Characteristics: Extremely soft and light. Great in hot weather.

Example: American Apparel Tri-blend

Use: Being the comfiest mofo on the block.

 


Fashion-fit Ringspun Cotton: 4.3 oz

Characteristics: Softer and lighter than standard shirts, but more durable and warmer than vintage fabrics.

Example: American Apparel 2001

Use: Everyday wear around town - nothing heavy duty

 

Light-weight generic cotton: 5.3 oz

Characteristics: Cheap, scratchy cotton. This is because few, if any, companies make a fashion 5.3oz, but rather offer it only as a cheaper alternative to the 6.1oz. These tend to be the least expensive shirts on the market, and thus many non-quality minded printers' first choice.

Example: Gildan 5000

Use: Spending as little money as possible on your shirt order, preferably if someone else will be wearing it. 

 

Heavy-weight generic cotton: 6.1oz

Characteristics: Warm, durable, and comfortable.

Example: Gildan 2000

Use: Athletics, yard work, cooler weather.

 

Super heavy-weight cotton: 7oz

Characteristic: Very warm, very durable. Typically spec'd out for military use. May be able to stop bullets, but don't quote me on that.

Example: American Apparel HJ401

Use: Hunting in the Arctic. These are the warmest and most durable tees on the market.

 

9+ oz fabric: Congratulations, you're wearing fleece! We print that, too!

 

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